Hello everyone,
I hope life in your respective cities is treating you well.  My life has really picked up in Kolkata and there is much to tell you about.

Because Kali Puja and Diwali occurred at the same time, walking around was painfully loud and smoky.  Diwali is the festival of lights, so there are decorative lights on everything, and there are also constant fireworks being set.  India doesn't have any regulations on fireworks like in the states, so anyone (and everyone, apparently) can buy incredibly loud, huge fireworks.  Everywhere you walk kids and adults both are lighting any firework imaginable.  Our friends who are studying Bangla through AIIS (the organization funding Aakash) went on a field trip to where they make fireworks and one of them was kind enough to share some of the 160 bottle rockets he purchased.  Lots of fun.

Walking to dinner the other night was also quite an experience.  We found ourselves caught in the midst of the processions of idols from Kali Puja to the river for immersions.  Energy was high as ten to twenty foot idols on the back of trucks were slowly driving down the road.  Dozens of drummers and dancers were walking alongside or in the trucks as well.  Very exciting and VERY loud. The most interesting and enjoyable thing we saw was on our way back from dinner when we came across some drummers and dancers performing the story of Durga.  Dancers were dressed in elaborate costumes of Ganesh, Durga, the demon, and other members of the story and they danced and spun and swung swords around to the drumming.  You can see a short clip of the performance here: http://instagram.com/p/gTTX3OKBtn/

Last night Aakash and I performed with Nishab, a guitarist, at a local bookstore. We've been doing some free improv together as the trio Inside Out and the gig went well.  We had over 60 people come to listen.  The bookstore was the incredible space and one of the owners recorded and video taped it, so we're hoping to get some of the good bits which we'll share once it's on youtube or whatever.  We improvised for about an hour and my personal favorite part was when this wacky guy who funded a pandel we had visited on Saturday came.  Originally, when we met him, he was thrilled to have me and our American friend Lily at his pandel and he asked us to pose so he could take all these photos with his Nokia phone.  His pandel also paid homage to an Indian musician who recently passed away, so Neela (the one who took us pandel hoping) told him about our gig.  We exchanged cards and he called me on the day of the performance to tell me he was coming (with my business card because he didn't like to go anywhere uninvited) and to see if it was okay if he took photos.  Anyways, about 10 minutes into our gig, he walked in, and when we paused between songs he came and shook my hand.  Later (one song before we ended), he shook my hand again, thanked me and wished me well and said he had to leave.  Very bizarre and hilarious.

Love you all.  Know you're in my thoughts.

Love,
Jayanthi

Hello everyone,
I hope fall finds you well. Although it's still dreadfully humid and hot here, there has been intermittent breaks to the heat recently, which is lovely.  

Aakash and I continue to meet new people and friends.  We've established a nice group of American friends (plus one Brittish friend) who we see a few times a week.  I'm slowly starting to get leads regarding a job.  Last week I met with the head of the Calcutta School of Music and she seems interested in having me teach private voice lessons.  The biggest challenge right now is that everyone is on holiday because of Durga Puja.  This holiday centers around the idol Durga, the mother goddess, and celebrates her defeat of the demon Mahishasura.  Durga is said to be able to turn into a lion, so she's always depicted (with her six arms) with a lion, while Mahishasura is also depicted as a bull.

Durga Puja is a particular massive holiday in Kolkata.  Every neighborhood builds structures called pandels to house idols of Durga killing Mahishasura, along with Durga's four children (and their accompanied animals.)  Pandels typically have a theme of some sort.  We've seen a pandel on reading, Egypt, mosaics, and a variety of colors and more.  It was interesting watching the pandels be built (we pass three two and from the grocery store) and it's truly crazy to walk around to each, especially because of the crowds of people all out and taking pictures.  The pandel closest to our house is traditionally really exquisite, so it's basically been like a carnival with the food stands, games, and other kiosks that were set up.  

Friday we were invited by Aakash's music teacher to a private family Puja.  The family is a respected, established family in Kolkata.  They live in a house over 250 years old on a street named after their family.  Most of the house has been rebuilt, except for the building that the puja was set up in.  We gave our respects to Durga, socialized, and then they did the first of many Asha's.  Basically, the priest lit candles, burned incense, and offered food to Durga while over a dozen bells, drums, and gongs were played.  This lasted a long time, but when it was done, we ate a bunch of food.  

We spent many evenings, Saturday staying out til four a.m., pandel hopping, as it's called.  Normally everything in Kolkata shuts down around ten.  (The metro stops running at nine, buses and autos at ten.)  It's usually hard to find a restaurant open after ten, but Durga Puja, all bets are off.  Everything runs all night and the streets continue to be crowded.  It was really astonishing.

Today is the last day of Durga Puja.  To prep for the holiday, idols are sculpted out of clay, pandels are built, and the idols are painted and decorated.  Today is the immersion ceremony, which we went to the river for.  All day long, people from all over Kolkata bring the idols to a big loading dock on the Ganga (Ganges) River.  They take the idols out of the truck, turn it around three times, and submerge it in the river.  The idols are made out of a clay that disintegrates, so the idols were traditionally dumped in the river and left there.  Today, in an effort to combat pollution, because the idols are covered with toxic paint, paper, flowers, and other things, they actually immerse them in the river, then use a giant crane to remove them and pile them in a heap. It was astonishing to see both the music, dancing, and celebrations at the river and how the idols that had so much time and energy put into them were just tossed aside.  To see a short video I took of the process, click here.

Anyways, we're hoping that things will become more normal again now that Durga Puga is over.  Although there are apparently two more holidays coming up in the next two weeks, so I really have no idea what to expect.  It's often more surprising to me that things get done in India at all.  Saturday Aakash and I went and met Bishop Raju and had tea with his wife and daughter.  This upcoming week we were invited to dinner at our landlords.  Prashu and Clara may come visit next week as well, but it hasn't been confirmed. 

Please know we're thinking of you all and hope you're well.  I hope to hear from you soon and please let us know if you're able to skype sometime.  Have a great week!

Love,
Jayanthi

Hello everyone!  Hope you're having a good Wednesday.  (I think it's officially Wednesday everywhere you are now!)  Aakash and I are officially somewhat settled and trying to get into the normal routine of things.  

Last week, we went to Delhi for Aakash's father's funeral.  (This is a very long, detailed story.  I won't be offended if you skip a few paragraphs if you're in a rush!)  It was a really whirlwind of a trip.  We arrived in Delhi Monday night around nine and went to Aakash's cousin's house for dinner.  Vinnay and his wife Yashika were wonderful hosts and we were lucky to spend time with them.  Around eleven, we started off for the airport.  First, we parked the car in a lot and got into a van with one of Renudidi's cousins.  (Renudidi is Aakash's stepmom.)  Then, we went to the airport to pick up Renudidi.  Her flight was delayed, but we waited and got to know her sister and nephews who had come to greet her as well.  After she arrived, her sister took her luggage and along with her cousin, Vinay, and the owner of the van, we set off.  But first we drove somewhere else and switched drivers.  (The whole trip was very confusing for us.  Apparently the original driver owned the vehicle, but they hired a different driver to take us to Haridwar.)  Anyways, then the five-ish hour to Haridwar began.

We left around one am I think.  Once we got out of Delhi, it was extremely dark and bumpy.  For anyone that doesn't know, traveling outside of cities in India means driving on a dirt, mostly two-ish lane road, and the bumps and holes are more than numerous.  Aakash and I were sitting in the backseat where there were no headrests or seatbelts.  We knew we were in for a trip when Vinay, who we had previously established NEVER wears a seatbelt, reached and buckled his.  I couldn't see outside the vehicle at all, but the trip basically consisted of us driving really really fast, then someone slowing down (which was tough, because that's when you knew to brace yourself for bumps) and driving over CRAZY bumps.  More than once, our heads nailed into the roof of the van.  There was also constant eye-blinding headlights in both directions from other vehicles.  When the driver came upon a truck in front of us, he would pass it, more often then not starting a terrifying game of chicken with another car that was heading straight towards us.  Needless to say, I got some sleep, but not a lot.  Luckily, Aakash slept a good amount, or at least more than me.

Finally, when it started to slowly get light, we stopped for some chai, then drove a little further and parked in a (sketchy) parking lot, behind some small temple.  We changed in the car and walked down an alley past some sleeping beggers, who were slowly getting up.  At the end of the alley was a small, sort of open outdoor amphitheater with a roof and steps that stepped down into the Ganga (Ganges) River.  I was shocked at how fast the river was flowing, although the brown, cloudy water did not surprise me.  Some priests approached us and Vinay said something and they lead us to the end of the amphitheater where we performed the rites.  I couldn't understand what he was saying and I was not sitting close, but from what I could see, this is what happened:  They poured the ashes onto a big plate.  Vinay, Aakash, and Renudidi were given flower petals to pour on the ashes.  During the whole thing, the priest was chanting (in Sanskrit, I believe) and Vinay, Aakash, and Renudidi were instructed to repeat things after certain phrases.  Money kept being placed on the plate and then another priest brought a cup of water from the river and the main priest poured it over the ashes.  All this happened a few times, and then the ashes were dumped in the river onto one of the steps that was submerged.  The whole ordeal was very quick.  Traditionally, you are not suppose to photograph anything during this, but I took some pictures for Meera.  (Meera, I'll send you a link once I upload them.)  

Obviously that was the most exciting thing that's happened in the past ten days.  Aakash started lessons with his guru.  He had two lessons, but now his guru is out of town and doing some recordings, so he has a week or so to practice before his next lesson.  I've starting singing again, which is nice, but feels a little off.  However, it gets better all the time.  Monday, Aakash met Tanmoy Bose in the recording studio and played some stuff for his upcoming album.  Last Saturday, we had some Americans over to play Cards Against Humanities, which was awesome, of course.  These were friends we met through our British friend, Jess, who unfortunately couldn't make it.  One humorous thing that happened was with our new friend Matt.  When we first met, we shared an auto home together, because we found out we lived on the same street!  Anyways, we walked home and parted at a corner for each of us to go home.  (Although it was night, so Aakash and I actually got lost.  Oops.)  Anyways, when we invited everyone over to play CAH, I found Matt looking for our house when I was meeting other friends to show them the way.  Anyways, after walking to our house, it SHOCKED both of us to find out we actually live at the same address.  He told us he lived at "70 Cornfield Rd," but apparently he mumbles (you get that, right Julie?) and he lives at 7C like us.  To get to our flat, you open a gate, walk up two half flights of stairs (which leads to Matt's door), then open another gate and walk up another half flight to our flat.  It was pretty funny to find out we weren't only street neighbors, but we share a gate and a washing machine.

Anyways, I think that's more than enough from me.  I hope you're all well.  I've been feeling a little under the weather and have been sleeping a lot, but hope to find a dance class and start looking into teaching in the next week or so.  I love you all and hope to hear from you soon.

Love,
Jayanthi 

Hello again!
It is barely 11:30 today, but already it has been a wonderful day! This morning we went and viewed a flat owned by an English professor and her retired husband that we loved and we have decided to take it.  The owners live across the hall and are a very nice couple perhaps in their late fifties or early sixties who speak great English (which is a big plus to me!) The flat is on the second floor (considered the first floor because it is done above the ground floor.) There is a beautiful big kitchen with dishes, gas stove, and refrigerator.  This is an upgrade from another place we looked at that had a few more rooms but was twice the cost, not including the fact that the owner said we must buy a refrigerator if we want one.  It is a one bedroom apartment with a really nice, clean bathroom and a large living room with guest bed.  There is also a spacious hallway with a table and a small patio.  And there is also a washing machine we can use! Obviously we are very pleased and are happy to finally be able to settle in.  We will hopefully move in tomorrow and set up Internet there within the week.

House hunting has taken up much of our time, but we have had some opportunities for fun.  On Saturday, we went to a member's only club with some friends we met on our last flight who were visiting from Delhi.  Last night, we went to a sitar concert with Aakash's guru which was nice.  I could have done without the 45 minute lecture in Bangla at the beginning, but I can't have it all.  We invited a British girl we met at the AIIS office a few days back.  It's nice to both make friends and have someone to speak the English we are accustomed to.

So, there's the most current update.  I will give you all our address when I have it on hand and I will of course update you all again.  I feel my English is already becoming different from trying to communicate with Indians, so hopefully you can understand all that I've written.  Know that Aakash and I think of all you all often and we hope you're well.  Talk to you soon!

Love,
Jayanthi

Hello!
We arrived in Kolkata two days ago and have a nice flat for the next two weeks.  Really high ceilings, a good bathroom, and full kitchen (stove, sink, kitchen) although we haven't found a grocery store to stock anything yet.

Yesterday we woke at four and walked around the Park Street area.  There are lots of parks and shops around.  We also bought SIM cards but I do not have a charger for my phone so only Aakash's has been activated.  His number is +91 80-17390176.  I'll let you know when mine is set up.  Once it is, my number is 8017392712, but again, my phone charger is not working, so it's not set up or working yet.

We are currently at the AIIS Kolkata office setting up a few things, which is why we have wifi.  We're talking to them and talked to the guy who we are currently staying with about finding a permanent place.  Besides that, there is not much to report.  Yesterday afternoon I slept for seven hours and again for more after we had a late dinner, so it's nice to finally catch up on rest from packing, moving, and flying.  Aakash is being wonderful and taking care of lots of things (taxis, food, etc) as I rest up.  Kolkata definitely feels busier, crazier, and more populated than Delhi, but it does not smell as bad (luckily for us.)

In Delhi, we again visited the AIIS head quarters and the next day we had dinner with his family.  We were both tired, but they were very pleasant and fun to get to know.  Aakash is also trying to slowly teach me Hindi.  I've learned to count to ten for sure, but nothing else has really stuck.

Anyways, I wanted to update you all and let you know I'm thinking of you.  When I feel rested and am fed, things are great.  If not, I am grumpy and frustrated, but I know things will get better in time.  I love and miss you all.  FYI, on the airplane, Aakash told me he missed Priya and Jonah.  So please give them our love from both of us!

Love,
Jayanthi