Jayanthi Bunyan
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Living  In  India

I'm currently living in Kolkata, West Bengal, India.  I'm not a really a blogger, but I do send occasional updates to my family in the States.  This is where I'll share my occasional emails home and add pictures about my adventures.

Enjoy!

One Month Left!

5/23/2014

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Hello everyone!
Today marks the last month of our ten month stint in India.  We leave Kolkata on June 22 and Delhi on June 23rd and although we're looking forward to all of the things home will bring, we're trying to treasure the last month here.  

So many things have been happening.  Last night was Aakash's final (he thinks) performance in Kolkata before we leave.  He played in a quartet with his friend from Tasmania, Julius.  Julius and Aakash met last summer in Banff and he came to Kolkata for three weeks to hang out and write music.  They performed and studio recorded four tunes and it was really great to have him visit.  He leaves Sunday.  
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My work came to an end with the performance of The Wizard of Oz on May 10th.  (I can't remember if I wrote about the final performance, so sorry if I'm repeating myself.)  They kids were absolutely incredible and all of their hard work really paid off in a wonderful show.  They lighting and mics were all very big in a very Indian way, and the kids handled the constant lasers and smoke that kept occurring very well, especially since there was never any dress rehearsal!  The students were also extremely grateful to me and showered me with beautiful homemade gifts and poems.  One student even drew me a picture of a singer sitting on top of a coconut and singing "I LUV DAAB!"  It's really touching how much they'll all miss me, but I am happy to report that I now have four private voice students from Dolna (and five students total!)  I also had a group of six friends (Aakash and my sister including) who came to the show which I really appreciated.  Here's a recording I made of the students singing a cappella in rehearsal.

Aakash and I visited my favorite daabwalla today and were super saddened and shocked to find that he had cut his left middle finger really badly.  (Job hazard I suppose.)  Although he didn't cut his finger all the way down to the bone (like my friend Matt did), it was definitely a deep cut.  It was pretty swollen and the finger was red from the bleeding.  Another guy was there cutting daab for him.  Aakash and I asked him if he needed anything and ending up bringing him some antibacterial wipes and a roll of bandage.  He started cleaning himself up as we left and I'm frankly not even convinced he had washed or cleaned it at all since he had cut himself yesterday.  It didn't look infected yet, but I'm definitely going to bring him more antibacterial wipes tomorrow.  Just an example of the life of many of the people who live in this country.

That basically sums up the past few weeks for me.  Aakash and I are trying to decide what we want to do in our last month.  We're planning a trip to Shantiniketan as well as a few more "explore Kolkata adventures."  I'm also hoping to spend a little more time on my cycle, but all of these activities are difficult because the temperature has been over 40º (104º F) most days the past few weeks.  Not to mention the humidity.  There's no denying we're looking forward to cooler temperatures in the states!

I hope you're all doing well and finding success in what you're doing.  Know you're in our thoughts and we're looking forward to seeing many of you in a month or so!
Love,
Jayanthi

PS- My sister posted a few videos from our tour in Bangalore in March (Thanks Shantha!) so I thought I'd share them with you.  The first one is with me singing and the second one is of Jeeju's Jeeju.  Enjoy!
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India's Northeast

4/30/2014

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Good Morning!
I hope this email finds you all well.  Kolkata has been unbearably hot recently (well over 40 degrees Celsius), but I've been out of town for almost two weeks, so the heat is just now getting to me.  Here are some updates and things I've done recently, in chronological order:

Aakash and I really enjoyed Meera's visit.  Meera and I spent days and days shopping in different parts of the city, which was very wonderful!  We also ate lots of delicious food and visited various temples.  Aakash and Meera took a siblings trip to Shantiniketan for a few nights, and it sounds like they had a great time and experience.
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I also visited Shantiniketan another weekend with Alec and Matt. Shantiniketan is a town about four hours outside of Kolkata that Tagore built a university in.  It's now considered a huge hub for all types of artists, particularly Baul singers. We stayed for two nights and had a blast.  Between the three of us, we rented one cycle and one cycle rickshaw, so we explored the area with one of us on a bike, one of us pedaling the cycle rickshaw, and one of us sitting in the rickshaw stocked with daab.  The fresh air and friendly environment was a nice break from Kolkata.

My sister and I, along with Alec, went on a trip to the Northeast.  We started in Meghalaya, which is now my favorite part of India.  The highlight of Megalaya was staying in Mawlynnong, a small village that was awarded the title of "Cleanest City in Asia" a few years back. It was absolutely exquisite and clean, especially for India!  We stayed in a home that included a Sky View, which was a 85 plus foot bamboo structure that allowed us to climb above the forest so we could view the plains of Bangladesh, about 4 km away.  Spectacular.

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Seeing Living Root Bridges in Meghalaya was one of the most, if not the most incredible thing I've ever seen and touched.  Behind our house in Mawlynnong, we walked around 30 minutes through the valley and neighboring villages to Riwai. Even now, after seeing the bridges, I hesitate in trying to describe it exactly.  Meghalaya is the wettest place in the world, so when monsoon comes, all man made infrastructures are destroyed within five years.  So instead of rebuilding bridges across rivers every few years, they spend a century cultivating the roots of a tree into a bridge.  The bridge itself was absolutely massive and beautiful, and it was hard to believe it was all nature. The path across it was wide and sturdy and paved with a few stepping stones, presumably to help if it is wet.  We left early in the day and were the only ones on the bridge when we arrived.  The river was low and we were able to climb the bridge, touch it's roots, and explore the surrounding rocks.  I can't quite explain how magical it was, but it was incredible to see such a harmonious blend of humans with the nature around them.

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The "paved" road on top of the bridge.
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Following Meghalaya, we traveled to Kaziranga National Park in Assam.  This park is not only a tiger reserve, but also boasts having 2/3's of the great one-horned (unicorn) rhinosaurus, as well as elephants, water buffalo, and countless other birds and animals.  In the morning, we went on an elephant safari, where we road on the back of a pack of elephants as they took their morning stroll and ate breakfast.  We were extremely close to so many rhinos that I'm unable to tell you how many of the magnificent creatures we saw.  In the afternoon, we took a jeep safari and saw more rhinos and elephants just hanging out, as well as so many other birds and animals.  And most exciting of all, we actually saw a tiger!  He was sunbathing on the opposite side of the river and we were able to see in from a watch tower.  It was magical.  The park was beautiful and another great example of humans living respectfully and side by side wild animals.

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Coming back to hot hot hot Kolkata has been difficult.  The Wizard of Oz is one week away and I am looking forward to celebrating the success of the students' hard work and no longer working with an administration I do not see eye to eye with.  Our time here is diminishing quickly- less than two months away!  I hope  enjoyed my update.  Know that both Aakash and are thinking of you all.

Love,
Jayanthi
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Traveling, Touring, and Trams

3/29/2014

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Hello everyone,

Kolkata has officially become extremely HOT.  I keep starting an email to you, and then stop because I find myself too distracted or tired due to the heat. But I'm finally hoping to make it through a whole email.

So many things have been happening in our life.  Here's a quick recap of some key events:
1. Aakash and I had a four show "tour" in Kolkata and Bangalore.
Aakash's quartet played his newest album and I joined in on the title track again, followed by three jazz standards.  Each performance went well and it was a big week for me with lots of firsts.  I performed jazz
for the first time AND attempted scat singing.  It was a really fun
experience and I feel lucky to have been involved.
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2. My sister arrived in India before we left for Bangalore.  Shantha was here in time for Holi, the holiday of spring and colors, and we were invited to "play" Holi at a friend's house.  I was nervous at first, but, after showing my students pictures of us afterwards, feel confident that we did the holiday justice.  Most notably, the two of us, along with my friend Alec, visited Kali Temple, which is not only the most famous temple in Kolkata, but the most notorious for pick
pockets and other bad experiences for foreigners.  I'm happy to report that although it was one of the more unusual (meaning unexpected, crowded, sticky, and disgusting, to name a few) experiences of my time India, I found it to be a really positive and interesting experience .
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4. Aakash's sister Meera arrived two days back and we are really enjoying her company.  Meera and I have already had two full shopping days and I'm looking forward to taking her to New Market, one of my favorite (but most insane) parts of Kolkata.  Getting to know her better and reconnecting our friendship from high school is really special and I'm happy she'll be here for another week.

5. This evening, Aakash successfully performed another Indian classical concert, and he really did a superb job.  He was invited to play at a house concert where he performed both Indian classical music with a tabla player as well as some original tunes with an Italian guitarist friend.  Sadly, my camera was lost last week so I was unable to take any video.  I'm hoping to get a copy of footage taken by someone else and I will share it when I do.

6. I've been doing a lot of exploring in Kolkata the last few days and am excited that in addition to finding a whole block of daab wallas with cheaper, incredibly delicious daab, I also rode the Kolkata tram for the first time.  It was shockingly comfortable and identical to trams I've seen in movies from the forties.

Anyways, despite my infrequent emails, know that I am thinking of you all.  I hope life in your respective homes is going well.  For those of you in cold climates, I wish you warmth, and in return, hopefully you can send some snow clouds our way.  I love you all and hope to hear from you soon.

Love,
Jayanthi
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Sagar Island

2/4/2014

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Hello!

My life has been packed full of adventure lately.  This weekend I went
on a trip with some friends to Sagar Island, the most south west point
of West Bengal, which is also a religious spot for some Hindus.  As
usual, I went with Matt and Alec, but this time, our friends Lily and
Julene joined.  The island was supposedly four hours away, and getting
there was definitely a trip.
First, we left the train station by my house at eight am.  After around one and a half hours, we arrived in Diamond Harbor, the last stop on the particular train we were riding.  Diamond Harbor left more than a little to be desired.  We wandered around trying to get rolls (a standard Bengali food that is basically a chicken and/or egg wrapped in roti) but couldn't find it anywhere.  We finally settled on egg toast (the chai wallah's version of french toast) and boarded a
bus to take us to the ferry.  The bus was as crazy as any mode of Indian transportation, though the highlight (besides sitting in the seats directly opposite the driver) was when we noticed the horn was actually a spoon.  Yes, a spoon.  The driver pressed down on a spoon, which obviously connected something that rang the horribly loud and obnoxious horn.  Oh India.
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Can you see the horn spoon here? Look carefully...
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After maybe an hour on the bus, we then boarded a van.  I don't mean whatever van you're picturing in your head, I mean a two-wheeled flatbed maybe four by five feet that's pulled by the front half of a motorcycle.  Of course. However, the five of us rented the entire van, so we had room to spread out and enjoy the wind in our hair and passing scenery.  The van then dropped us off at the ferry.

The ferry was definitely a highlight of the trip.  Not only was the ride at least 45 minutes, the amount of seagulls flying around the boat was in the hundreds at least.  They started flying around in and out of the ferry's wind. Literally hundreds of seagulls started completely circling the boat, calling out, and diving/fighting each other.  There were men on the ferry selling bags of food to toss to the birds and seeing them fly around, diving and catching food was spectacular.  On the way back, we bought some food ourselves and it was really fun to throw what I can only describe as similar to the cereal corn pops in the air, and watch a seagull swoop up from below and catch it in it's beak.  It was incredible to watch.

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Anyways, when the ferry finally arrived on Sagar Island, we of course had to hire a car to take us to the complete opposite side of the
island.  Luckily, after hiring a driver for the night and next day, we
were able to trust he would take us to the right place because the
island only has one paved road.  The drive to the south point, where
we were staying, was a little under an hour and as we drove, we passed
beautiful green fields, artists making idols for the upcoming
Saraswati Puja, and countless other beautiful and unusual things.
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We finally arrived at our destination, only to find that the hotel we were planning on staying at was closed.  Luckily, we found a cheaper place quickly.  With the sun fading fast, we put our things in the hotel, and took the car to the island lighthouse to watch the sunset. Obviously we got to Lighthouse Rd. and found that the lighthouse had been unstable and had crumbled years before.  But the sunset over the ocean was gorgeous in itself and we didn't need a lighthouse (although one would think the island would need a lighthouse...)  That night,
after a delicious dinner, at least thirty dab, and hanging out in the hotel, Alec and I decided it was too awesome to leave the next day, and since we were free on Monday, we made plans to stay another night.

The next day, while we were waiting for breakfast, we went to the island temple.  It was not a very exciting temple, either on the outside or inside.  The outside was colorless and rundown and the inside was only half filled of a few idols.  But as we stepped out of the temple, this huge sea of people came walking up from the ocean. Our timing was perfect, because as we left the temple, we were able to watch all the pilgrims enter the temple after their cleansing bath in the ocean.  Very cool.
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After breakfast, we all went to the beach briefly.  Lily, Julene, and Matt dropped Alec and I off at the hotel and we had the rest of the day to walk around.  We walked back to the beach and watched sand crabs, played in the water, and drew in the sand. It was absolutely gorgeous out and I was astonished by how flat and empty the land was. On the horizon, we were able to see detailed outlines of people
thousands of meters away. Because we had a car and driver the first day, it wasn't until the second day that we really walked around where we were staying.  Again, there was only one paved road, so it was impossible to get lost.  Plus, the whole town probably knew where the only videshis (foreigners) in town were staying if we had to ask
anyone.

Based on how much I already wrote, I should probably finish up the
story.  I'm so glad Alec wanted to stay another day because I had such
a wonderful, relaxing, and rejuvenating time on the island. The next day, even without Matt to translate for us, we managed to find a bus, get to the ferry, find another bus, and finally board the train at
Diamond Harbor for Ballygunge Station. That's right, we were able to cut out one step!  Although I do really enjoy living in Kolkata, the
less populated, natural, rural India is definitely my favorite place to be. One of my favorite things in India is traveling (by any of the above mentioned modes) through green fields and seeing pops of vibrant
colors, red, orange, yellow, blue, from the clothing of the people in
the field.  I definitely got a fix of that this weekend.
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Aakash is doing well.  While I was on Sagar Island, he spent four
nights at an all night Hindustani music festival (7pm-7am) and he
seems very inspired and energized from the weekend.  My work is as
chaotic as ever, but I'm enjoying starting to work with students for
The Wizard of Oz.  Next week, Aakash and I will go to Hyderabad,
Dornakal, and both northern and southern parts of Kerela.  I'm looking
to spending some time away together.  Eventually I'll put more photos
of Sagar Island on my website, so check it out.  But no promises as to
how soon it will happen.  I hope that you're enjoying whatever you're
currently keeping busy with.  Know I love you and think of each of you
often.

Love,
Jayanthi
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Happy January!

1/15/2014

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Hello everyone!
Aakash and I had a very wonderful Christmas season filled with wonderful family, friends, and food.  Teresa, Aakash's mom, arrived in Kolkata on Dec. 21st, just in time to see my new choirs perform at the Christmas Fete.  I'm so proud of all the hard work the students did, memorizing over ten songs in less than four weeks.  The teachers and parents seemed to love the performances, especially the songs with motions, of course.  Instead of one big concert, the two choirs alternated singing every half hour, so they could also enjoy the festivities.  But the school's founder, Auntie Maushi, wanted us to sing for longer, so we repeated favorites and prolonged the music.  (The senior choir sang Joy to the World at five times- even twice in the same set.)  There is no doubt it was a success.  The students were very gracious and gave me an absolutely exquisite handmade card.  I'm looking forward to working with them again.

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The first full day Teresa was in town, we took a two hour car trip to see Aakash perform with Tanmoy Bose at a Bengali book fair outside the city.  The excursion lasted almost twelve hours and definitely felt not worth it, until the band FINALLY went on after nine p.m.  It was such an exciting wonderful show. Not only did they perform with Tanmoy Bose's regular band, they also performed with some Baul singers (prounounced bowel).  You can see a short clip here.  Baul singers are Bengali traveling minstrels, who live off the food, clothes, and donations given to them for their music.  It was absolutely incredible.  And I got some English books for Christmas gifts at the bookfair!

Christmas/Aakash's birthday was wonderful.  We had a party on Christmas Eve and a lot of friends were able to come, including Aakash's teacher and his sister.  We had loads of sweets and food, and even though I asked Aakash to buy his birthday cake himself, he seemed surprised when we brought it out with candles.  Cole made it for the whole party and we ended the night singing carols with the few lingering guests.  We woke up leisurely on Aakash's birthday and after skyping with Meera for a long time, opened up stockings and presents.  The afternoon was spent in perfect Aakash fashion, ie watching hours and hours of Star Trek.  I'd say it was a very successful holiday in all.
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The next day, we again met Aakash's teacher for lunch, and while Teresa accompanied Aakash to his lesson, Cole and I visited Victoria Memorial.  The highlight of that excursion was when two school girls approached us to ask where we were from and see if they could take a photo with us.  We were more than surprised when after saying yes, we found ourselves surrounded by over a dozen girls in uniform in perfect formation for the photo.  Oh India.  
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On the 28th, I flew to Hyderabad for a few days to meet my parents and spend some time with family.  I was there to celebrate both Indu and Venkat and Prashu and Clara's anniversary.  It was special to be there since I actually remember both weddings!  Unfortunately, as we left, the entire crew in Hyderabad was sick, as was my dad and eventually my mom.  
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We arrived in Kolkata on the first and despite illness on virtually everyone's part, had a lovely time. My mom and I went shopping for a few days (hooray!) and she even found a few Indian tops for herself! She also came with me to a tabla lesson.  One evening, Mom was kind enough to let me invite some friends over and accompany us while we sang Christmas carols (despite it being January 8th.)  She also made her famous hot fudge recipe for us, which was delicious!  Mom (and Dad) also accompanied me to work one day.  The day was filled with nothing going according to schedule, which gave them a good idea of what teaching in India is like.  But they were able to see my teach two classes, see the massive amount of children I teach in a tiny, tiny room, and witness how wonderful some of my students can be.


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Dad and I spent an afternoon visiting Bishop's College, which turned out to be in the north side of the neighborhood I live in.  Although I had apparently visited the college in 1993 when I was six, it was all new to me.  We wandered through the entire campus and library, and even found his name inside some of the old college chronicles. Although there's now a new building and a flyover right next to the college, it seems as though most things are still the same.  It was definitely one of the highlights of their trip for me.

On Mom and Dad's last day, we went to Nizam's, a restaurant in New Market, which apparently Dad had been telling Mom about since the day they met.  It's a kabob/roll restaurant and it was absolutely incredible.  We went with a friend of mine and Dad ordered a mutton curry that we all agreed had the best gravy we had ever tasted.  
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Anyways, it was truly wonderful having so many visitors come, but I must admit it's nice to get back to the regular swing of things.  Work is going well. I am starting to prepare my classes for a function (or program) in May, as well as audition and get started on the Wizard of Oz, which I'll be doing with students in Class VI-XI.  Besides that, I'm just working on getting my house back to it's normal working condition and finding time to hang out with friends.  Aakash was in Delhi over the weekend to perform at the AIIS conference.  He said it went well and I'm looking forward to seeing the video.  
I hope you are all doing well, and I give you kudos if you were able to make it to the end of this extremely long email.  Know that you are in my thoughts often and I wish you all a happy, healthy, and wonderful 2014!

Love,
Jayanthi
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Christmas Is Coming...

12/21/2013

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Hello everyone!
I hope you are able to find a moment to relax and enjoy the approaching holidays.  Life in Kolkata has become extremely busy for me.  As I said in my last email, I began working at Dolna Day School.  The school has three classes below Class I for two, three and four year olds, through Class XII.  Each week, I see Upper Nursery (the three year olds) through Class VII for forty minutes as well as a Junior and Senior Choir which I see three days a week.  Although teaching is exhausting, particularly in a school that is not the culture I am use to, I am really happy to be back in the classroom.  I am already developing a special relationship with students and teaching them really energizes me.  
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I can't say it's all peaches and cream though.  There are so many things I am not used to and so many things that shock me about this school.  For example, there is not one quiet signal used in this school.  Teachers will just yell at students if they're too loud (which is, ahem, very effective...) so I'm putting a lot of time into teaching and training students to respond to quiet signals.  I began working at the beginning of December and today is the Christmas Fete, which as far as I can tell is a big Christmas Carnival.  Each of my choirs will be singing 10-12 songs throughout the Fete.  Yesterday, our rehearsals went really well and I am very proud of the hard work they put into memorizing and doing various musical things I ask of them.  I am, however, looking forward to January when I can really start with basic singing skills.  The upcoming performance forced me to focus on memorizing and learning songs, rather then technique.  Students did make lots of improvements and I think they are enjoying working with me just as much as I am with them.  I made all my choir students (13 in Junior Choir, 45 in senior choir) all name tags because I cannot keep them straight and I am pleased to report not a single choir member lost their name tag!

Aakash has been busy playing with lots of people.  A few nights back he performed with a group for the Kolkata classical guitar festival and tomorrow he's playing with Tanmoy Bose's band, Taltuntra.  He's currently en route home from the airport, where I am hoping he found his mom!  Teresa will be visiting us through January 2nd, and we're looking forward to her visit.  

In addition to the Christmas Fete and Teresa's visit, we've also been busy preparing for Christmas and Aakash's birthday.  I'm excited because Cole Paulson, one of our good friends from high school, recently moved to Delhi and he'll be coming to Kolkata for Christmas.  We're throwing a party on December 24th for our friends who will be in town and I am looking forward to singing Christmas songs.  Cole will be here in time for the party which is exciting.  For those of you who don't know Cole, we have been in plays and choirs together since middle school, so I've been singing Christmas sings with him every year for almost fifteen years.  If you can't tell, we're excited he'll be joining us.
My friend Matt bought me a dab Christmas tree.  Dabs=coconuts.  Basically, if you hack of the branch of a dab tree and remove the dabs, it looks like a cactus Charlie Brown Christmas tree.  It's very beautiful.  Once we get it fully decorated, I will share pictures!
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I guess I haven't written since I went to the Sunderbans with Matt and Alec.  It was an absolutely incredible trip, and very close to Kolkata.  We traveled by train and bus for two hours, and hired a boat to live on for two nights.  We spend the next few days zigzagging around islands in the Ganga delta, looking for wildlife and drinking Dab.  (Between the three of us, we drank almost 50 dab.  It was awesome.) We didn't see any tigers (even our guides, who've lived there all their lives have only seen tigers three times), but we saw a crocodile and some incredibly beautiful birds.  It was amazing to be in such a peaceful, open, isolated place after being in Kolkata for so long.  It reminded me a lot of NY's finger lakes. There were narrow and wide parts of the rivers, and at times you could only see the land to the right and left, but not in front or behind you.  Each night, the boat anchored to the dock (and by dock, I mean the muddy space to the side of the river) of the village our driver and cook live in.  Both nights, they brought us into their village and we were able to walk around.  We had to take off our shoes and roll up our pants because walking through the muddy dock meant we would sometimes sink up to our knees.  The villagers were very friendly and inquisitive to the three videshi's (foreigners) walking around their home.  It was the most underdeveloped area Alec and Matt had ever been to in India and it reminded me a lot of Dornakal (the village my dad's from).

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Anyways, I guess I'll leave it at that.  Please know you are all in Aakash and my thoughts, especially during the holiday season.  I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a blessed New Year.  Hope to talk to you all soon!

Love,
Jayanthi
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Chennai, Bangalore, and more

12/5/2013

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Hello everyone,
I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving and are excited as the Christmas season starts.  I'm seeing a lot of Christmas decoration happening via Facebook, but I haven't seen too much holiday cheer in Kolkata.
It's been a long time since my last email home, but I'll try my best to recap the last few weeks.  Aakash and I spent a few days in Chennai. In addition to vacationing, Aakash met with a mridangam (south Indian double barrel drum) player he knows from the US who was in town (short video here.) We stayed in a lovely hotel that included an incredible all you can eat south Indian breakfast. We hired a driver one day and drove to Mahabalipuram, a city on the coast about 60 km south of Chennai. This area is known for it's stone carved temples, and we enjoyed visiting a few right on the beach. We also visited Dakshina Chitra, which was basically a south Indian Williamsburg.  They had models of old homes and occupations found in Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala and we saw some artists, including a sari spinner, doing their thing.  
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My favorite part of our day trip was going to Crocodile Bank, which was basically a crocodile, turtle, and snake zoo.  We were able to see them feed Jaws, a 16 foot crocodile (the largest gator in captivity).  He's only fed once a week, and it was crazy to see this tiny Indian man taunting and throwing him meat out of a bucket.  Seriously wild.
Afterwards, we took a six hour train to Bangalore.  It was the first long distance train Aakash had been on and we spent most of the trip standing at the open door watching the scenery pass by.  Bangalore was wonderful.  We stayed with my cousin Pranu (my dad's younger brother's daughter) and her husband and three kids.  It was a very relaxing few days- we mostly stayed near the house except for a few excursions into the city with the family or Bakunana.  I stayed a day later than Aakash and was able to see a little bit of the kids' choir concert.  
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Coming back to Kolkata very much felt like coming home.  It was nice to have so many projects and friends to come back to, although things were immediately busy.  Aakash started daily rehearsals for the Kolkata jazz festival while I met and interviewed with Dolna Day School, a pre-preschool through class XII school nearby.  Aakash's performance at Jazz Fest was a huge hit.  You can see a great photo and some wonderful quotes here: http://www.telegraphindia.com/1131204/jsp/t2/story_17639614.jsp#.UqBtUGQW1gJ He performed on the Saturday, which was definitely the most attended evening of the three day festival.  In addition to his normal guitar/bass/drum group, Payton, an American Fulbrighter studying Indian vocals in Bhopal, played vibraphone.  They played Aakash's entire Ocean album with Payton playing Ron Miles' trumpet part.  Aakash also asked me to sing on one tune (wahoo!) which was both an honor and just plain fun.  Who knew I would to moving to India would expand my jazz improvisational skills?

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As for me, I started teaching at Dolna Day School.  I'm working three days a week (Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays) although they've made it clear I can work more if I'd like.  The school is very close to our house.  I walk 3-5 minutes to an auto stand where I catch an auto to the other side of a flyover, which takes another 3-5 minutes.  I'm mostly teaching singing, although it seems like I have a lot of freedom and liberty to do what I want.  Right now, the big push is getting the junior choir (around twelve 9-11 year olds) and senior choir (around forty 12-17 year olds) ready for the Christmas Fete where they'll be singing carols.  I see each choir every day I'm there.  I've never taught in a school where an all school event is centered around Christmas and we're actually encouraged to sing carols.  I also see the younger classes once a week, beginning with the three year olds.  The class sizes are enormous.  There are about 60 three year olds, and the other classes comprise of at least forty students.  Most classes are very well behaved and come with their classroom teacher, which will probably be helpful as the novelty of me wears off.  I feel fortunate to have found such a pleasant school to work at and they're planning on performing The Wizard of Oz in May, so we'll start working on that in January.

Anyways, that's my update for now.  This weekend Aakash is attending an all night classical Indian concert and his teacher's concert at a nearby auditorium. I'm going with a few friends to Sundarbans, a nearby mangrove forest/tiger preserve.  Then, Aakash's mom arrives in Kolkata followed by my parents.  It's hard to believe we've been living in India for over three months and it's already time for our folks to come visit!  I hope you're staying warm wherever you are. (Indians have appropriately been busting out the wool scarves- it can get as cold as the mid-70's during the day!)  Know that I miss you all and think of you often.  Hope to catch up soon!

Love,
Jayanthi
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Happy Diwali/Kali Puja

11/8/2013

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Hello everyone,
I hope life in your respective cities is treating you well.  My life has really picked up in Kolkata and there is much to tell you about.
This past weekend was Kali Puja and Diwali.  Kali Puja consisted of more pandels like I described in my last email. We were fortunate to have a friend, Neela, take us pandel hoping because she took us to really crazy, unique pandels. One of them depicted all the stages of Kali's life with real children.  We were urged to not use flash photography because the kids were suppose to keep their eyes open the whole time.  It was wild!  Then, we went to this other pandel that was equally crazy.  When we entered, there was this strong blue light and a foam/bubble machine.  Then, in the middle of this field of bubbles was this girl posing.  Once we walked through, we saw the idol.  Again, really crazy.  Although Kali Puja does not have as big of pandels as Durga Puja did, there were perhaps even more pandels then the holiday for Durga.
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Because Kali Puja and Diwali occurred at the same time, walking around was painfully loud and smoky.  Diwali is the festival of lights, so there are decorative lights on everything, and there are also constant fireworks being set.  India doesn't have any regulations on fireworks like in the states, so anyone (and everyone, apparently) can buy incredibly loud, huge fireworks.  Everywhere you walk kids and adults both are lighting any firework imaginable.  Our friends who are studying Bangla through AIIS (the organization funding Aakash) went on a field trip to where they make fireworks and one of them was kind enough to share some of the 160 bottle rockets he purchased.  Lots of fun.

Walking to dinner the other night was also quite an experience.  We found ourselves caught in the midst of the processions of idols from Kali Puja to the river for immersions.  Energy was high as ten to twenty foot idols on the back of trucks were slowly driving down the road.  Dozens of drummers and dancers were walking alongside or in the trucks as well.  Very exciting and VERY loud. The most interesting and enjoyable thing we saw was on our way back from dinner when we came across some drummers and dancers performing the story of Durga.  Dancers were dressed in elaborate costumes of Ganesh, Durga, the demon, and other members of the story and they danced and spun and swung swords around to the drumming.  You can see a short clip of the performance here: http://instagram.com/p/gTTX3OKBtn/
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Last night Aakash and I performed with Nishab, a guitarist, at a local bookstore. We've been doing some free improv together as the trio Inside Out and the gig went well.  We had over 60 people come to listen.  The bookstore was the incredible space and one of the owners recorded and video taped it, so we're hoping to get some of the good bits which we'll share once it's on youtube or whatever.  We improvised for about an hour and my personal favorite part was when this wacky guy who funded a pandel we had visited on Saturday came.  Originally, when we met him, he was thrilled to have me and our American friend Lily at his pandel and he asked us to pose so he could take all these photos with his Nokia phone.  His pandel also paid homage to an Indian musician who recently passed away, so Neela (the one who took us pandel hoping) told him about our gig.  We exchanged cards and he called me on the day of the performance to tell me he was coming (with my business card because he didn't like to go anywhere uninvited) and to see if it was okay if he took photos.  Anyways, about 10 minutes into our gig, he walked in, and when we paused between songs he came and shook my hand.  Later (one song before we ended), he shook my hand again, thanked me and wished me well and said he had to leave.  Very bizarre and hilarious.

Work is picking up for me.  I met with a school in north Kolkata that I'm going to offer four classes at, starting in December or January. I've also found a western pianist who wants to collaborate on some music, which is nice. Aakash and I fly to Chennai tomorrow for four days, and then will train to Bangalore.  It will be Aakash's first time in India south of Kolkata. I'm looking forward to getting out of the city for a bit.  As always, I'll keep you updated! 
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Love you all.  Know you're in my thoughts.

Love,
Jayanthi
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Happy Durga Puja!

10/14/2013

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Hello everyone,
I hope fall finds you well. Although it's still dreadfully humid and hot here, there has been intermittent breaks to the heat recently, which is lovely.  

Aakash and I continue to meet new people and friends.  We've established a nice group of American friends (plus one Brittish friend) who we see a few times a week.  I'm slowly starting to get leads regarding a job.  Last week I met with the head of the Calcutta School of Music and she seems interested in having me teach private voice lessons.  The biggest challenge right now is that everyone is on holiday because of Durga Puja.  This holiday centers around the idol Durga, the mother goddess, and celebrates her defeat of the demon Mahishasura.  Durga is said to be able to turn into a lion, so she's always depicted (with her six arms) with a lion, while Mahishasura is also depicted as a bull.

Durga Puja is a particular massive holiday in Kolkata.  Every neighborhood builds structures called pandels to house idols of Durga killing Mahishasura, along with Durga's four children (and their accompanied animals.)  Pandels typically have a theme of some sort.  We've seen a pandel on reading, Egypt, mosaics, and a variety of colors and more.  It was interesting watching the pandels be built (we pass three two and from the grocery store) and it's truly crazy to walk around to each, especially because of the crowds of people all out and taking pictures.  The pandel closest to our house is traditionally really exquisite, so it's basically been like a carnival with the food stands, games, and other kiosks that were set up.  

On Thursday, we went to the unveiling of a Puja to see a Hindustani singer perform.  After a delay of over two hours, the governor of West Bengal finally arrived to give a short speech and basically do a ribbon cutting ceremony for the Puja.  (In this case, he mostly just removed newspaper cover some idols and opened a curtain.)  The theme of the Puja was kind of bizarre- it was kindness. Normally, Durga is all about overcoming evil, but in this, they decided Durga would teach the demon kindness.  Kind of a good idea I guess, but it was funny because they had  commissioned paintings of the demon doing good, humanitarian acts, such as pushing a child in a wheel chair, picking up trash, and helping kids water a garden.  Finally, the musicians performed, but half way through their short three song set, a Bollywood movie star with her family came and the crowd went crazy.  
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Kindness themed scene. Notice the demon is playing with a little kid and a kite?
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Friday we were invited by Aakash's music teacher to a private family Puja.  The family is a respected, established family in Kolkata.  They live in a house over 250 years old on a street named after their family.  Most of the house has been rebuilt, except for the building that the puja was set up in.  We gave our respects to Durga, socialized, and then they did the first of many Asha's.  Basically, the priest lit candles, burned incense, and offered food to Durga while over a dozen bells, drums, and gongs were played.  This lasted a long time, but when it was done, we ate a bunch of food.  

We spent many evenings, Saturday staying out til four a.m., pandel hopping, as it's called.  Normally everything in Kolkata shuts down around ten.  (The metro stops running at nine, buses and autos at ten.)  It's usually hard to find a restaurant open after ten, but Durga Puja, all bets are off.  Everything runs all night and the streets continue to be crowded.  It was really astonishing.

Today is the last day of Durga Puja.  To prep for the holiday, idols are sculpted out of clay, pandels are built, and the idols are painted and decorated.  Today is the immersion ceremony, which we went to the river for.  All day long, people from all over Kolkata bring the idols to a big loading dock on the Ganga (Ganges) River.  They take the idols out of the truck, turn it around three times, and submerge it in the river.  The idols are made out of a clay that disintegrates, so the idols were traditionally dumped in the river and left there.  Today, in an effort to combat pollution, because the idols are covered with toxic paint, paper, flowers, and other things, they actually immerse them in the river, then use a giant crane to remove them and pile them in a heap. It was astonishing to see both the music, dancing, and celebrations at the river and how the idols that had so much time and energy put into them were just tossed aside.  To see a short video I took of the process, click here.
Anyways, we're hoping that things will become more normal again now that Durga Puga is over.  Although there are apparently two more holidays coming up in the next two weeks, so I really have no idea what to expect.  It's often more surprising to me that things get done in India at all.  Saturday Aakash and I went and met Bishop Raju and had tea with his wife and daughter.  This upcoming week we were invited to dinner at our landlords.  Prashu and Clara may come visit next week as well, but it hasn't been confirmed. 

Please know we're thinking of you all and hope you're well.  I hope to hear from you soon and please let us know if you're able to skype sometime.  Have a great week!

Love,
Jayanthi
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